Monday, 13 June 2022
A study into the lives and working conditions of Leicester garment workers has identified nine key areas that the sector can improve upon.
Experts from the University of Nottingham’s Rights Lab and De Montfort University were commissioned by the Garment & Textile Workers Trust (G&TWT) to gather insight directly from those who work in the garment industry to inform the purpose and scope of the Trust, which was formed earlier this year.
The researchers have published their findings, along with their recommendations for intervention, in a new report which will inform the Trust’s priorities for the coming year.
The experts have recommended priority areas for major retailers and government agencies to focus on to improve workers’ lives and working conditions – these include:
- Provide a single ‘front door’ contact point for workers wishing to make a complaint to enforcement agencies and offer ongoing support and case management for those who raise issues. Ensure that successful outcomes are communicated to raise levels of confidence.
- Establish trusted support to advocate for workplace rights. This should engage with existing trades union initiatives but should also explore additional options for representation of worker voices, drawing on the experience of organisations that have experience in representing migrant workers.
- Connect workers with sources of community-based legal advice and support, available in a range of community languages. This support should cover immigration, housing and welfare rights in addition to workplace rights.
- Improve access to local educational services for workers and their families, particularly related to further education, and language support for younger children.
- Connect workers with sources of employment support, training, information and advice to enable them to access different types of work.
- Continue to engage closely with employers to create high-quality jobs that are accessible to a wide range of workers (including those with caring responsibilities or limited transport options).
Garment workers told us that they want to build a beautiful future for the next generation in Leicester, but there are currently many constraints that stop them from accessing fair pay and conditions. Our report has added to the existing knowledge about these issues, but importantly also points to solutions suggested by workers themselves. We hope that the interventions outlined in our report can help to guide both local and national-level action in the years ahead.
Initial funding for the Trust of £1m, donated by the boohoo group, will be funnelled through charities who are already proving to have a positive impact for garment workers and who would benefit from an injection of additional funding. The funds will be targeted at partners who can provide training and access to free advocacy, two of the key challenges faced by those who took part in the research.
Kevin McKeever, Chairman of the Garment & Textile Workers Trust, said: “This research is an important addition to the body of knowledge on labour exploitation in the garment and textile industry and significant in listening to the voices of workers themselves, alongside local government and civil society.
It’s crystal clear that there’s only so much companies, individuals, trade unions and civil society can do to tackle labour exploitation in Leicester and beyond – it’s time for government to step up and form – and fund – their long promised single enforcement body.
Many workers that took part in the study identified limited employment options due to a lack of qualifications and job search skills, proficiency in English and - particularly for women - cultural expectations associated with family and childcare duties. They also expressed a wish to pursue additional training, particularly in relation to English language skills, IT skills, and practical topics such as first aid.
The researchers report that anti-exploitation measures have proved ineffective due to the isolation of workers, low expectations concerning the impact of raising concerns, and insufficient multi-agency collaboration at local level. The experts say that there are also continuing disincentives to employers to offer decent work, due to uncertainty about the financial returns possible within an ethical business model and a ready supply of workers with limited options.
Economic pressures on small business in the garment industry in Leicester may well contribute to continued exploitation of workers. In turn, we have learned that while workers tend to know their rights they report feeling powerless.
Professor Walsh continued: “As such, there may well be opportunities for community leaders and outreach workers to represent these workers so that they receive a decent wage and help them overcome unethical tactics that some employers were allegedly undertaking that effectively meant people were not being paid for the work they had done.”
Tim Nelson, CEO of Hope for Justice and founding Trustee, added: “It is clear from this research that greater coordination is required from those accountable for protecting the rights of workers employed in the garment industry. Businesses, charities and individuals can all play their part, but to truly rebuild this country’s proud textile heritage and to protect the sector’s workforce, we need the Government to act. The creation of a single, properly funded labour market enforcement body, with the powers and staff it needs to protect workers, is a vital first step.”
This research has helped to identify positive solutions to address the endemic issues that female workers in the textiles garment industry have faced for generations.
Khudeja Amer-Sharif continued: "As a women's organisation with the expertise of working with, and the trust of, local female workers spanning 36 years, we are keen to continue to empower women by providing vital support such as, English for Speakers of Other Languages (ESOL) courses; textiles training; workers’ rights; advocacy and help into work in a unique women's only environment.”
Leicester workers took part in an anonymous questionnaire or interviews about their experiences of working in the garment sector and their ideas of how people's working lives can be improved.
The findings are published in a report, 'Fashioning a beautiful future?' which can be downloaded here.
More information is available from Dr Alison Gardner in the Faculty of Social Sciences at the University of Nottingham at email@example.com or; Katie Andrews in the Press Office at the University of Nottingham on 0115 9515751 or at firstname.lastname@example.org
Garment and Textile Workers Trust
The Garment and Textile Trust was set up using an initial £100,000 from boohoo Group to provide support, remedy and advocacy for workers across Leicester’s garment and textile industry. A further £1m was provided by boohoo Group for the Trust’s first year of grant giving. The trust is governed by an independent group of Trustees, with Kevin McKeever taking on the role of Chair of the Trust.
Founding Trustees are:
- Kevin McKeever – Chair
- Allison Tripney – Trustee
- Tim Nelson – Trustee
- David Lindley – Trustee
- Cheryl Chung - Trustee
The Trust’s giving in the first year will be closed giving, meaning that rather than running open applications which take a great deal of cost and time to assess, the Trust will be working with a contact group of identified service providers who can help deliver on our ambitions for the first year.
CONTACT: email@example.com | 0800 246 5353
Notes to editors:
The University of Nottingham
Ranked 18th in the UK by the QS World University Rankings 2023, University of Nottingham is a founding member of Russell Group of research-intensive universities. Studying at the University of Nottingham is a life-changing experience, and we pride ourselves on unlocking the potential of our students. We have a pioneering spirit, expressed in the vision of our founder Sir Jesse Boot, which has seen us lead the way in establishing campuses in China and Malaysia - part of a globally connected network of education, research and industrial engagement.
The University is among the best universities in the UK for the strength of our research, positioned seventh for research power in the UK according to REF 2021. The birthplace of discoveries such as MRI and ibuprofen, our innovations transform lives and tackle global problems such as sustainable food supplies, ending modern slavery, developing greener transport, and reducing reliance on fossil fuels.The University is a major employer and industry partner - locally and globally - and our graduates are the second most targeted by the UK's top employers, according to The Graduate Market in 2022 report by High Fliers Research.
We lead the Universities for Nottingham initiative, in partnership with Nottingham Trent University, a pioneering collaboration between the city’s two world-class institutions to improve levels of prosperity, opportunity, sustainability, health and wellbeing for residents in the city and region we are proud to call home.